My modelling experience has taught me a lot about making clothes fit to perfection. The job, after all, is to make whatever product you are modelling look absolutely flawless on picture. Even on a “beauty shoot” that focuses on the face, hair and hands, there’s a busy stylist perfecting the top, collar and sleeves in between each take.
Sometimes a blouse will be taped to my skin or heavily pinned all along my back to look like it has been tailored. For a fashion or commercial shoot, the stylist will often work with my proportions to make me look taller (I’m 1,71cm) and quickly alter a piece of clothing to fit the brief. It’s common for models to wear their own denim jeans and bring a few accessories on set to help with the styling.
Throughout the years, I’ve developed a small kit I bring along with me to castings and jobs and learned a thing or two about making clothes fit better. Below I’ll detail a few common wardrobe issues I’ve encountered whilst modelling and their super practical (and easy) solutions that translate to everyday life. For more tips like these and sneak peeks behind the scenes of my modelling jobs, head to Substack and subscribe to Slow Fashion Weekly.
A see-through white shirt and VPL (visible panty lines)
VPLs are a stylist nightmare. I never go on a shoot without wearing a double layer of seamless underwear on me. On the top, I wear a seamless skin-coloured bra and skin-coloured tank top with very thin straps. I like a smooth, fabric for both so they’re completely invisible under clothes. I pack a set of transparent straps for the bra just in case.
On the bottom, I wear a basic thong and on top a skin-coloured shorty. I wear double underwear for warmth, comfort and to have enough options without having to change as we’re often in a rush.
These basic undergarments turned out to be super helpful in life as well, especially whilst travelling. Several brands have developed collections of undergarments matching different skin tones. I personally like these M&S high rise shorts and matching bra, which are very durable. I’ve had mine for years.
Tights that slide down
Tights often slide down if they are slightly too small but that’s something that can be easily dealt with. I wear a shorty on top of my tights, which secures them in place all day long.
Skirts that spin around annoyingly
This happens because the skirt is sitting too low under the waist or its waistline is too large. The solution is to add darts (fold the fabric) at the waistline so it fits better. This operation is very affordable and can be done by a tailor or at home. Alternatively you can also pin the skirt waistline to your tights in the back but that’s more of a temporary solution.
Pants or jeans with crotches that hang too low and reveal your underwear or create a “camel toe”
It’s all about finding the right “rise” for you. The rise is the distance between the crotch and the top of the waistband on a pair of trousers. The best way to figure out the one that works best for your body (usually divided in low, mid/regular or high) is by measuring the rise of your most well-fitted pair of jeans and using it as a reference when you shop.
As I mentioned in the intro, even models on shoot wear their own jeans because it’s particularly difficult to find good ones. Every body is different and taking your measurements with you when you shop is the best way to avoid fit issues and returns.
Strapless dresses and tops that slide down
I love wearing strapless tops in summer and they come in very handy on shoots as well. To keep them from sliding down, I wear a strapless bra underneath and pin the innermost part of the fabric of my top to the bra. I make sure the safety pin isn’t visible from the outside. Et voilà!
This magical technique also works with shirts, which buttons pop open. I pin the fabric in between the buttons making sure I’m only pinning the inner fabric so the pin isn’t visible. I do this little operation before putting on the shirt. You can buy a set of different safety pins (choose a variety of colours and sizes) here.
Flopping belts and over the knee boots falling down
When I’m on shoots, clothes are either pinned in the back or taped to my skin to make them look flawless on camera. You can use tape to correct some minor issues like a flopping belt, a bra strap that doesn’t stay up (by taping it to the top) and knee-high boots that keep falling down the leg (by taping them to high knee socks). I’ve seen professional stylists use this product in the past. Make sure to use a new one each time so the glue doesn’t damage the fabric.
Managing creases
That’s another professional stylist secret: the steamer. I just invested in mine after seeing how quick and easy it is to use. Ironing also damages clothes and isn’t recommended on most delicate fabric like silk. The only thing to remember is to never steam clothes whilst you’re wearing them. I bought this small steamer because I wanted something easy to pack and use on the go.
A jumper that has pile on it
Piling happens when two pieces of fabric rub against each other. You’ll often find piles under the sleeves in the armpit area of a jumper or on the back where it rubs against the coat. It’s often the case with wool based materials. The solution is to invest in a bobble remover that shaves the fabric and make a jumper look brand new in minutes. Mine is from Phillips and I couldn’t recommend it enough.
Adjusting a shape
Belts or anything that can act as one are amazing accessories. I use them to transform a piece of clothing and give it a new shape. An oversized buttonless cardigan or a big ankle length coat will look more polished with a large belt cinching the waist. It will create a more harmonious silhouette and elevate your outfit without having to buy anything new. If you scroll Pinterest you’ll find plenty of inspiration. I recommend investing in a few models of different length and width with removable buckles to be able to play around with your wardrobe.
Layering your clothes
Layering is a technique that works with a lot of styling issues that are not related to the construction of a top but its shape. For example if you find the cleavage too deep you can layer a t-shirt underneath. If you’re not convinced by a sleeveless top anymore, you can wear it on top of a shirt or long-sleeves turtle neck jumper. My favourite is to layer a fine knit under a sleeveless dress and wear a big jumper on top to transform it into skirts and be able to wear them all year round.
And you?
What are your emergency wardrobe tips and tricks? Share them below.
