Clo de Vila, founded by Justine, a French-native Londoner like me, is definitely one of the most exciting slow fashion brands I came across recently. I fell in love with her delicate embroidered ‘bisous’ (kisses in French) brooches. We met virtually to chat about preserving embroidery heritage in India and why she decided to take the leap and launch her own business in the midst of a pandemic.
This interview was originally published in my newsletter. To discover more slow fashion brands and read exciting conversations with independent designers, head to Substack and become a member of Slow Fashion Weekly.
Tell us more about your background. Why did you decide to launch Clo de Vila?
“I’m a French embroidery designer, maker and teacher. I came into fashion for the love of handmade, to make things into shapes as well as for the relief and calm that self-expression can procure. I graduated in fashion design and I had my first few jobs in design and production. While sourcing materials in Morocco and Italy, I met highly-talented embroiderers. I discovered the fascinating and countless technique palettes that hand-embroidery offers and this is how I got hooked! While freelancing, I carried on training and I went to the Lesage School of embroidery in Paris.”
“I worked for a decade in luxury fashion, on pieces for houses including Chanel, Dior and Valentino. Working across Paris, London and Chennai for major fashion houses, I’ve always felt an uneasiness around the stigmas that exist in the supply chain to make these exquisite pieces. I saw that ‘Made in Europe’ often translated to ‘partly made in India’. According to the country of origin laws, European brands are able to label their garments Made in France or Italy even if thousands of hours of embellishment work were outsourced and that they have only been finished in Europe. It is also common for European embroidery suppliers to get their own embroidery done in India.”
You decided to work with Indian embroiderers. What’s your relationship with them?
“My first thought to avoid this sort of practice was that we should work locally and not with India but after being exposed to the day-to-day life in an Indian embroidery company, I became aware of the technical excellence that the Indian embroidery craftsmen provide.”
“I’ve also realised that not every factory in India is a sweatshop. Indian labour cost is unquestionably lower than European but reducing the Indian embroidery trade to the fact that it is cheaper, is not taking into consideration the incredible heritage and the tremendous talent existing in India and is perpetuating the false and deep-rooted colonial presumption that Indian labour comes in pair with lower quality.”
“As we often do in the West, I realised that not distancing myself from the subject and not working with India would just make me feel better but not have any impact for the talented embroiderers and the preservation of this precious trade. According to Employment News Weekly, 60 million workers in India are dependent upon the textile and the clothing industry for their livelihood. The extinction of the trade could have a dramatic impact on this part of the world.”
“I believe that recognising the talent of Indian embroiderers is the first step to create awareness and give them the respect and credit that they deserve. In the last few years, as a few houses opened up about their relationship with Indian embroidery houses, things have started to evolve.”
“Although initiatives such as pacts to improve business ethics and embroidery schools for less privileged women were created, there is a long way to go. Things are complicated. There isn’t going to be an easy answer to the question of what is the perfect business model to repair the damages caused (and is being caused) by colonialism and consumerism to the balance of this world. Recognition is a small step but it will enable us to begin the conversation and this is linked to the improvement of wages and working conditions.”
“So I set-up Clo de Vila to celebrate the beauty of manual artistry along with its authors and to work on being a better customer to the precious Indian suppliers.”
“Oh, and I also love teaching! I am fascinated by the connection that craft triggers, through borders as well as generations. I taught in the UK, US, Australia, Indonesia, it is so special to share the beauty of craft while meeting beautiful humans around the World. Maybe in the future, I will open a small Clo de Vila embroidery school… Stay tuned!”
Clo de Vila is a slow fashion brand. Walk us through the production process of a Bisou brooch.
“As a maker, I need to feel connected to the pieces. In terms of design, I operate using a pretty old school and slow approach. I do not use a computer, I draw by hand and make a sample for each piece. That way, I can see the pieces come to life in my hands.”
“Then, the pieces are reproduced in small batches, in India. I work with certified Indian embroidery companies that I have previously visited. We make more quantity only if there is more demand and the pieces are trans-seasonal, so we don’t create dead stock products and materials. This sort of business model generates less pressure on the suppliers.”
“As for the embroiderers, we have an open exchange to make sure we provide the best quality. Their expertise spans over decades so they often come up with ideas to tweak the pieces. All the stitching work is done by hand, the padding, the hand beading and the finishing.”
“For the materials, I look for sustainable solutions. For example, the little tongues on our fruity bisous are made using Peace silk, or Ahimsa silk, handwoven in India. The cases are made out of 100% recycled boxboard and eco-fibre filler.”
“The brooches were created during lockdown, when it wasn’t possible to visit every supplier in person and the deliveries were disrupted. Researching to find materials with the least impact is a process for me. Not every material used on the brooches is sustainable or recycled yet but I am committed to improve and find better solutions in the future.”
Do you have a few style tips to wear the “Bisou” brooch?
“The Bisous brooches are versatile and can go on absolutely everything! They are made to be playful, add a spark of joy and give a new life to your garments. You can use it to embellish your jumpers, jackets, bags, shoes or even your underwear! By embellishing it with the Bisous, you can rediscover the beauty of that jacket, bought years ago, that you forgot, at the bottom of your drawer, because the most sustainable item is the one you already have. So, have fun with your Bisou!”
Follow: @clodevila
More information: www.clodevila.com
